La Goutte d’Or is what you would call an “up and coming” neighbourhood of Paris that is less-frequented by tourists. We have heard a lot of buzz about some great places opening in the area and we decided to share some of our insider secrets to you loyal readers!
La Goutte d’Or is located in the 18th arrondissement just east of Montmartre. It is roughly the section in between Rue Ordiner to the north and Boulevard de la Chapelle to the south with Boulevard Barbes acting as its bustling backbone. As the area is heavily populated by West African and Algerian immigrants, it is a great area to find some of those cooking ingredients or food items that you might not find at Monoprix. I always head up that way to grab some cornmeal for cornbread, for example.
A perfect example of this is the local marché at Barbès-Rochechouart. Here you will find all ethnicities coming together under the metro to buy their weekly fruits, veggies, olives, fish, etc. I find that all markets represent their neighbourhood in a way and the Barbès market is a wonderful and festive introduction to La Goutte-d’Or. Here you will not find any organic kale but you will find some great fish, halal meat and produce and even some specialty dips and spices that you might not find anywhere else. All at some seriously affordable prices! Just make sure you pick your choices yourself or you might end up with a bruised pear or over-ripe strawberries.
After picking up some great nibbles from the market, make sure to grab a baguette from Au Duc de la Chapelle (32, rue Tristan Tzara) whose baguettes won Paris’ best baguette competition in 2008. They are still churning out roughly 1000 of these beauties today.
If it is a casual meal with friends you are after, snag a stool at La Rallonge (16 Rue Eugène Sue) and devour some of the best Spanish tapas Paris has to offer. Great wood bar, high stools, tiled floor and friendly service is what keeps this place packed. No reservations are accepted to be sure to get here early.
Just up the street is the more upscale sister of La Rallonge, La Table d’Eugène (18 Rue Eugène Sue) serves up market fresh gastronomic fare in an elegant atmosphere with impeccable service. The three course lunch menu is at the very affordable price of 32 euro and 55 euro at dinner.
While you are eating your way around the quartier, be sure to stop into the aptly named Brasserie de la Goutte d’Or (28 Rue de la Goutte d’Or) to quench your thirst! As Paris’ first artisinal micro-brewery, you can taste some of the beers and learn the process or grab some to go!
One of our all-time favorite coffee shops (and coffee!) is Cafe Lomi (3 ter Rue Marcadet) that moved over from their original location in the 17th a few years ago to their larger oasis-like space in the corner of the 18th. Relax with your computer or a good book for hours and try some of their city-famous coffee, friendly service and soothing atmosphere.
Please let us know some of your favorite spots in the neighbourhood!