To kick off our series of neighborhood guides where we plan on sharing our top neighborhood picks for shopping, eating and strolling, I thought that I would start with a quartier that has recently captured my heart with its boutiques, charm, centralized location, delicious goodies and cozy feel.
The 9th arrondissement is centrally located just north of the 1st and south of the 18th arrondissements. While it’s borders technically range from Rue Amsterdam to Rue Faubourg Poissoniere and from Boulevards des Italiens up to Boulevard de Rochechouart, when I refer to “the 9th,” I am specifically referring to the Lorette-Martyrs neighborhood that makes up the triangle between Pigalle, Trinite-d’Estienne-d’Orves, Notre-Dame-de-Lorette, Cadet, and Saint-Georges metro stations where Rue des Martyrs winds down the middle.
This area is quiet and calm with small streets, classic Haussmanian-style buildings, small boutiques and restaurants, and really no tourist attractions, making it a truly Parisian quartier. Here are some of our favorite spots in the area to help you fall in love with the 9eme like a true local.
Start by walking up Rue des Martyrs where your first stop should be La Chambre aux Confitures (9 rue des Martyrs) where Lise Bienaimé sells her fine jams with recipes and expert techniques that date back to her great-grandfather. Grab some dim sum at Yoom (20 rue des Martyrs), Paris’ first real dim sum spot and pop into 3 par 5 (25/27 rue des Martyrs) for some fun home design and accessories shopping.
As you make your way up the hill, enjoying the view of Sacre-Coeur, stop into Roxan (34 rue des Martyrs) for some fashionable Parisian menswear before crossing the street and turning down Rue Clauzel for some more shopping at L’Oeuf/South Pigalle (9 rue Clauzel) where you can find some hip local designs to add to your Paris look. Tun left at the end of the street and continue shopping at Vanina Escoubet (1 rue Henry Monnier), another local designer for clothing and accessories who has some really great unique pieces. Just a few doors up, shop for some vintage necessities at Celia Darling (5 rue Henry Monnier) before grabbing a delicious chai latte (from Coutume) and home accessories at Le Rocketship (13 bis rue Henry Monnier). The owner, Benoit, will be happy to tell you more about the artists who create every piece sold in his shop. All are locally made, and some even made in the 9th itself!
Wind your way back to Rue des Martyrs via Rue Navrin and stop in the beautiful cafe garden of Hotel Amour (8 rue Navrin). We love their breakfasts but an afternoon coffee or lunch on a sunny day is just what this intimate green garden was made for. The hotel itself is a super stylish boutique hotel that would be a fabulous place to get your Zs while in Paris.
Once you are back on Rue des Martyrs, grab a choux à la crème at Popelini (44 rue des Martyrs) , a pastry shop named after the Italian cook who invented the pâte à choux that sells adorable and delicious cream puffs with a modern twist that are giving macaroons a real run for their money!
Continue up until you hit Place Lino Ventura and stop in for an expertly made coffee at KB Café (formerly Kooka Boora). This cozy coffee shop will give you your boost for the day or provide you with a quiet place to work and relax.
Finally, if you are looking for some great food in the area, don’t miss Le Pantruche (3 rue Victore Masse) where Chef Franck Baranger serves up some superior grub in this bare-bones neo-bestro. His menu includes a celery root soup, oyster tartare, a standout côte de cochon, braised beef cheeks, and a gorgeous Grand Marnier soufflé. Wonderful, friendly service for a very affordable price. If you are in a hurry, however, grab an authentic Italian panini from Da Carmine (61, rue des Martyrs) with delightfully friendly, and sometimes too friendly, service.
Read more about Coutume, Le Rocketship, KB Café and other great coffee spots in our Paris Coffee Round-Up post.